indwe magazine – Nov 2006

Port Elizabeth
Fables, Fusion And Fun In The Sun

Bartholomeu Dias arrived in Port Elizabeth more than 500 years ago in September 1488, looking for a trade route to India and hoping to find a trace of Prester John, the benevolent ruler of a lost kingdom of great beauty and wealth. Prester John, so the legend said, was a descendant of one of the three Magi and had founded a prosperous kingdom in an unknown location. Here, peace reigned and man lived in harmony with strange creatures alongside the fountain of youth.

The legend of Prester John fired the popular imagination and spurred quests to faraway lands for several hundred years. By the time the legend started to fade, it had directly and indirectly encouraged Europe’s explorers, missionaries, scholars and treasure hunters to set sail and discover the world beyond their own borders.
Today, the only monument in the world commemorating this powerful influence can be found in Port Elizabeth. The memorial stands in the inner city, adjacent to the magnificent City Hall, and is dedicated to both the Portuguese explorers who came to our shores so many years ago and to Prester John.

It is fitting, then, that Port Elizabeth is the city that anchors Africa to a bay named after a man who dedicated his life to non-violence, peace, liberty and the equality of all: Mkhulu Nelson Mandela. In Port Elizabeth, myth meets living legend as past and present live side by side.

Nelson Mandela Bay, home to around 1.5 million people, encompasses Port Elizabeth, espatch and Uitenhage. It is here that wealth is created for our nation through a vibrant motor industry and where youth is celebrated with exuberant summer festivals. It is in this area that the first meetings of the Khoisan, British, Dutch, German and Xhosa people took place. Today, Port Elizabeth is still a melting pot for a myriad of races and nationalities – a true representative of the Rainbow Nation.

To locals, Port Elizabeth is known as the 10-minute city – a tribute to the free flowing traffic and the accessibility of places of business, sport and culture. Do not expect this luxury over the holiday season though, as merrymakers descend upon the Friendly City in pursuit of its numerous attractions.

Port Elizabeth is Africa’s water sport capital. With 40 km of golden beaches, there is plenty of opportunity for yachting, boat cruises, windsurfing, jet skiing and diving. Colourful coral reefs and plenty of shipwrecks make for fascinating scuba diving experiences. Pollock Beach in Summerstrand is renowned among surfers for its excellent waves, while Hobie Beach is host to the world boardsailing championships as well as the annual Splash Festival. Kings Beach is hailed as one of the country’s safest beaches and Humewood Beach has been given the international Blue Flag – a nod of sustainable and eco-friendly approval.

Even the beaches that are not ideal for swimming have their attractions. The bay has whales, dolphins, seals, great white sharks, penguins and plenty of sea birds. Sardinia Beach is one of the beaches where swimming is not advisable. Still, it is one of the most picturesque beaches in the country and popular with dog walkers, equestrians and picnic-makers.

A little further inland there is ample opportunity for mountain biking, river rafting, kayaking, bird watching and game viewing. Port Elizabeth is ideally situated as a base from which to explore the numerous game reserves surrounding the city. If the Big Five is what blows your hair back, hold on to your toupée and come prepare for unparalleled photo opportunities.

The beautifully preserved architecture of the city is also guaranteed to set the cameras clicking. The old buildings have a splendour about them that is seldom found in modern architecture. No 7 Castle Hill Museum is regarded as the oldest surviving settler cottage in Port Elizabeth. Built in 1827, it has been restored to reflect the gentle lifestyle typical of the English middleclass during the 19th century.

The Main Public Library on the Market Square is an absolute must-see. It was constructed in 1835 and originally used as a courthouse. In 1902 it became a library and is still one today. The majestic facade of the building was manufactured in England and rebuilt here piece by piece. The building is regarded as a prime example of Victorian Gothic architecture. With its high ceilings and magnificent stained glass windows, it is sure to leave you breathless.

Port Elizabeth is, by its very foundation, a romantic city. Sir Rufane Donkin, then governor of the Cape, proclaimed the Donkin Reserve a public open space in perpetuity. Here Donkin erected a stone pyramid in memory of his late wife, Elizabeth. Donkin was devastated by the untimely passing of his beloved wife. He had the pyramid inscribed with his dedication of the monument to “one of the most perfect of human beings, who has given her name to the town below”.

Whether it is the romance of a bygone era, legends both living and mythical, or just a jolly good time you are after, Port Elizabeth has something to offer for everyone. Head for Nelson Mandela Bay and share in the magic.

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