indwe magazine – Nov 2006

Mossel Bay
More than a Mere Harbour Town

Situated on a spectacular sun-washed peninsula embraced by the warm Indian Ocean, the town is a lively summer holiday resort and an ideal winter retreat. With the only commercial harbour along this stretch of coastline, the sea forms a vital part of Mossel Bay’s economy, rivalled only by its flourishing tourism trade.

Travellers bypassing the town via the N2 often have the misconception that it is little more than an industrial Mecca, given the developed sites that hide the town from view. However, it is a gentle, unhurried place. Mossel Bay appears to be a million miles from anywhere else, which Louis Harris, chairman of the local tourism board, attributes to the sweeping beauty of the bay, coupled with its historical and cultural richness.

The recorded history of Mossel Bay stretches back to 1488, when Portuguese navigator Bartholomeu Dias landed there. The first trading with local inhabitants did not happen until 1497, when Vasco da Gama set anchor in the bay. In 1500, the first Post Office was founded on South African soil at Mossel Bay, when a sailor, Pedro de Ataide, left a letter of importance in a shoe underneath a large milkwood tree. Amazingly enough, the intended recipient found the letter, thus beginning the tradition of the Post Office Tree, which is still in use today.

The preservation of Mossel Bay’s historic buildings and houses, many of which were crafted from local stone, offers a clear indication of the town’s proud history. Historical charm aside, Mossel Bay is one of the country’s most popular holiday destinations, for reasons aplenty.

“We are marketing Mossel Bay as the ideal place to play, work, eat and sleep,” comments Harris. And indeed, Mossel Bay has much to tantalise visitors. The town overlooks one of South Africa’s largest classic half-heart bays – so named because of its shape – that offers the type of shelter preferred by Southern Right whales, which return to the area every season to mate and calve. According to Marcia Holm, the manager of the Mossel Bay tourism office, one can expect to experience at least one good sighting of these majestic animals on almost any day between May and November.

While there is much to see and do in the town, most of the activities centre around the ocean. Mossel Bay has a splendid 10 km stretch of fine sandy beaches running from Munro’s Bay and Santos beach through to Little Brak River. The temperature of the water fluctuates between 22°C in summer and 13°C in winter. The waters are safe for swimming, as there is little danger of encountering sharks, largely because of the high numbers of seals in the area, which provide adequate fodder for the predatory fish.

A trip to Seal Island will take you roughly 2 km offshore to an outcrop that is 100 m long and 50 m wide, populated by as many as 5 000 seals. The Sea Fisheries Department controls the island and counts the inhabitants at regular intervals.

The sea is not only the focus of several of the town’s activities and attractions, but is also an important economic catalyst. While the presence of a refinery might be a touchy subject for certain cities, this is not the case for Mossel Bay. “It has been named the cleanest refinery in the world,” says Holm. “And if you have to have an industry like that near your town,” she continues, “it is good to know that PetroSA, which owns it, is doing all it can to minimise its impact on the environment.”

The town is also proud of its maritime history, which is clearly displayed at the numerous monuments and attractions that are open to visitors. Taking centre stage in the Dias Museum Complex – a cluster of seven different museums that attract more than 250 000 visitors each year – is a full-size replica of Dias’ caravel, the ship in which he and his motley crew sailed the oceans.

“The atmosphere of the town is peaceful and relaxed,” says Harris, “which makes it an ideal getaway destination.” Conveniently situated just 40 km from George Airport, Mossel Bay entices visitors with its rich naval history and its gleaming beaches. Second only to Hawaii for having the mildest all-year climate in the world, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, it is no wonder so many city folk flock to it, year after year, to indulge in its many charms.

10 Things to see and do in Mossel Bay

  1. Mossel Bay Arts and Crafts Route: showcases locally produced arts and crafts, including handmade maritime memorabilia, pottery, paintings, spices and fynbos products.
  2. The Tidal Pool and Blougat (Blue Hole): rocky reefs meet to form a natural tidal pool.
  3. Bat’s Cave: this 10-metre high, 12-metre deep and 22-metre wide cave is believed to have been home to Khoi, or Strandlopers in past centuries.
  4. St Blaize Hiking Trail: this 13 km path starts at the Tunnel Caves and ends at Dana Bay, passing through beautiful gorges, offering gorgeous sea vistas.
  5. The Harbour: the only commercial harbour along this stretch of coastline.
  6. The Santos Pavilion: one of only two beach pavilions still in use from Colonial times, the other being the Royal Pavilion in Brighton, England.
  7. The Maritime Museum: most importantly, this museum houses the replica of the Dias Caravel.
  8. The Post Office Tree and Seaman’s Boot Post Office: the first post office ever used on South African soil.
  9. Historic Buildings and Churches: these include the Annexe, the Cultural History Museum, the Dutch Reformed Church and St Peter’s Anglican Church.
  10. Lazaretto Graveyard: this old stone-washed graveyard tells the tale of Mossel Bay.
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