Gaborone - A Thriving Metropolis

The current state of Botswana is an African success story. Since independence in 1966 the country has built up a strong economy and stable democracy, and although hard hit by HIV/Aids, it is well known for having one of the most progressive and comprehensive government programs for dealing with the pandemic.

If measured up, Botswana is roughly the same size as France. Its economic stability and political character however have led to Botswana being referred to as “the Switzerland of Africa”. But when it comes to capital cities, all comparisons with Europe end. Gaborone is not built on the same scale as a Paris or a Zurich. It even struggles to size up to most of the other powerhouses on the continent. With a total population of around just 1.6 million, Botswana is far better known for its concentrations of wildlife than people. Gaborone was originally chosen as the new capital in the early sixties, mainly because of its strategic location and proximity to major transport routes. Back then it was little more than an administrative town named after a famous chief from the previous century.

Today it may not be the epitome of a sprawling metropolis, but Gaborone is a boomtown nonetheless. Its remarkable growth mirrors the progress of the country as a whole. The city has developed into a lively place, for both business and recreation, and yet it has lost little of its small-town intimacy and warmth. Visited mainly on business or as a stopover for foreigners en route to the wildlife hotspots in the north, Gaborone has never pretended to be a tourist destination. More and more people, however, are discovering that it has a lot to offer. We set out from Sir Seretse Khama Airport in our hired car to find out exactly what this included.

The city is surrounded by the same semi-desert and scrub that covers 80% of the country. Besides a couple of kopjes to the south, there are no natural landmarks by which to navigate. The suburbs also appear to have been built haphazardly, appearing wherever they could fit. This has lead to a chaotic mix of office blocks and residential areas and for some reason a total lack of proper street signage. We also soon discovered that half of the streets do not follow any linear order, but curve in misleading semi-circles. It was only a matter of time before we found ourselves floundering somewhere between Nelson Mandela Drive and Independence Avenue. Yes, the streets are delightfully named, in the mapbook, after great liberation leaders from across Africa.

Being lost provided us with the perfect opportunity to experience Botswana’s warmest welcome. The locals are always eager to help and must rate amongst the friendliest people on the continent. The only problem is the average Gaboronian has grown up knowing the city intimately and has never seen the need to learn the street names either. Driving on holiday can be a discomfort, but driving while on business is more of a headache than it’s worth. However, casual exploration is often the best way to capture the nature of a place and we were content to drift the length of the city soaking up the laid-back atmosphere. After three days I was confident I knew the layout of Gaborone better than most.

The main square of town is known simply as The Mall. Here I came to look at one of the cornerstones of the Botswanan economy; Debswana represents the country’s other source of income beyond tourism – diamonds. The mining giant, a joint venture between De Beers and the government of Botswana, is housed comfortably in the plush offices of Debswana House. After a short visit with them I take the time to wander around the many shops and office parks in the area. With the rapid developments going on, a lot of the new office parks and hotels provide an impressive, modern contrast to the old. Some of the more striking include the House of the National Assembly and Orapa House, where diamonds are sorted for export.

Places worth visiting include the National Museum and Art Gallery, both of which feature interesting local exhibits. As far as activities go there is the 600 hectare Gaborone Game Reserve, but don’t expect game drives to be anything near the standard found elsewhere in Botswana. The Gaborone Dam is not only the city’s source of water but a viable entertainment outlet too. Fishing and boating are popular amongst the locals when the water levels are high enough. Unfortunately, Gaborone endures long dry spells so this is not always guaranteed. As conciliation there is always the option of a cold beverage at the Gaborone Yacht Club. There is always the possibility of a leisurely round at either of the capital’s top golf clubs, Phakalane or the Gaborone Sun.

Despite its laid-back status as a city, Gaborone manages to come alive at night. There are many bars and restaurants, some of which you may need local help to find, but the effort is usually worth it. For the less adventurous, Game City and Riverwalk are shopping malls filled with all the same franchise stores and restaurants one would find in South Africa. A highlight for any night on the town should probably be either of the casinos, the Grand Palm or the Gaborone Sun. However, if you want a festive atmosphere where you can rub shoulders with the locals while the drinks flow all night, nothing in town can beat the Bull ‘n Bush. Just make sure that you are not too hungover to navigate the 8km back to the airport the next day.