THE WONDERFUL WHALE COAST - The Other Side of the Mountain

The Overberg, also known as “the other side of the mountain”, was originally named by Dutch colonists when they referred to the land east across the Hottentots Holland mountain range. Also called the Whale Coast, Overbergstrand possesses possibly the most magnificent stretch of coastline in the country, with mountains plummeting into the clear Atlantic Ocean in the west and the endless hills in the east falling down towards the sea, complemented by an abundance of the massive sea mammals found cavorting just offshore each year.

A result of the municipal demarcation process of 2000, Overstrand Municipality was created when the four diverse municipalities of Gansbaai, Stanford, Greater Hermanus and Hangklip-Kleinmond were united. Although each of these municipalities had their own character, they all suddenly shared a destiny. Their amalgamation resulted in a stronger force that preserves, protects and develops the different areas and their distinct attractions and treasures.

Seen as both an ecological and botanical gem, the Greater Kogelberg Region is an area with a composition unlike any other in the world. It encompasses the towns and holiday resorts of Kleinmond, Betty’s Bay, Hangklip, Pringle Bay and Rooi Els, together with the uplands and catchment area of the Palmiet River in the Elgin-Grabouw region.

It is also part of one of the world’s six plant kingdoms, the Cape Floral Kingdom. Unlike the other five kingdoms that are spread across several continents, the Cape Floral Kingdom is confined to the Western Cape Province in a narrow, unbroken strip extending no further than 200 kilometres inland from the sea. Although the Cape Floral Kingdom is the smallest of the world’s plant kingdoms, it is the most species-rich, with 1 300 species per 10 000 square kilometre. Referred to as the heart of the Fynbos Plant Kingdom, the Greater Kogelberg Region includes the Kogelberg Reserve, a 30 000 hectare area where roughly 1600 plant species can be found, with 150 species endemic to the area. The Kogelberg Reserve is also the habitat of 70 species of mammals, 43 species of reptiles, 22 species of amphibians, and more than 200 species of birds.

Since all the various natural habitats of the Western Cape can be found in the Greater Kogelberg Region, it is all the more important that this area should be preserved, developed and managed in a responsible manner. A biosphere reserve concept developed by the United Nations Education, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) provided a management scheme that proved most suitable for the specific needs of the area. The Kogelberg Biosphere Association (KOBIO) was created, a volunteer organisation dedicated to support the establishment of such a biosphere reserve for this area. The Greater Kogelberg Region fitted the requirements of a biosphere reserve, and complied with the three fundamental roles, namely a conservation role, a logistical role and a development role.

Most of the Overstrand area is part of the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve. Beautiful hikes along clear mountain streams are offered, and adventure junkies can pick and choose from a wide spectrum of outdoor activities: crayfish and perlemoen (abalone) diving; fishing; swimming; mountain biking; golfing at the stunning Hermanus golf course. Canoeing and white river rafting can be enjoyed in the Palmiet River near Kleinmond and wind surfing, boating and water skiing can be experienced at Maanskynbaai east of Hermanus.

The Overstrand coast is also South Africa’s famous whale-watching hotspot. With Gansbaai as the white shark capital of the world, Dyer Island, just off the coast of Gansbaai, is world-renowned for its white shark cage diving operations. Dyer Island offers the Marine Big 5 to tourists, which includes whales, the great white shark, seals, dolphins and penguins as well as displays of a myriad of pelagic birds.

Dedicated conservationist and visionary entrepreneur, Wilfred Chivell, is owner to Marine Dynamics (Shark Cage Diving) and Dyer Island Cruises (Boat-Based Whale-Watching). Chivell prides himself in responsible tourism and as a result the name Dyer Island Cruises & Marine Dynamics have become synonymous with quality marine wildlife experiences.

The Dyer Island Cruises & Marine Dynamics’ team of conservationists and resident marine biologist constantly work together with global experts in various ocean sustainability projects. The team’s extensive knowledge and unique approach ensures unforgettable whale-watching or shark cage diving trips, with insights into the rich and diverse wildlife inhabiting the seawaters.

Most of the towns along the Overbergstrand coast are fishing villages that evolved into holiday resorts. Of these, the biggest and most popular is Hermanus, the town named after the Dutch sheep farmer and teacher who let his sheep graze in this fertile bay.

The small town of Hermanus is unlike any other South African settlement. It is a town of overwhelming natural beauty, abundant marine wildlife, treasured traditions and contemporary developments. At the turn of the century, Hermanus earned international fame as an exclusive holiday destination because of its beauty, healing air and excellent fishing. It became fashionable in London to prescribe a visit to the ‘champagne air’ of Hermanus for convalescents.

Regarded as the heart of the Whale Coast, Hermanus offers the best land-based whale-watching in the world. Most of Hermanus’ shoreline consists of rocky cliff, and visitors can choose from several vantage points to observe the frolicking of these mighty mammals. Between 60 and100 whales come from Antarctica to mate and calf each year, and southern right whales, the species most common in these waters, are easily spotted from June to October. These magnificent creatures produce special sightings for tourists and onlookers, as they regularly come as close as 10 metres from the shoreline.

Part of the town’s unique culture, the official Hermanus whale crier informs locals of whale sightings and where they can found. Striding through the streets of the town with sandwich boards and maps, the sound of the whale crier’s kelp horn announces where the mighty mammals have been spotted. As this is the world’s only whale crier, this is a most prestigious position that puts the elect on the international stage. A new whale crier was appointed recently, Godleck Baleni from the Ubhukula clan, succeeding Wilson Salukuzana who held this position for over eight years.

The small town of Hermanus has its own distinct flavour and rhythm, and is host to many festivals during the year. The Hermanus Stanford Canoe Race, the Hermanus Harbour Museum Seafood Festival, the Hermanus Whale Festival & Half Marathon and the Hermanus Food and Wine Festival are some of the many festivals and celebrations that make this coastal town absolutely irresistible.