All too soon we touch down on a dusty landing strip near DumaTau, our luxurious home on the Linyanti River for the next few days. DumaTau, meaning “roar of the lion,” operated by Wilderness Safaris, is situated on the western fringes of Chobe National Park. On the opposite bank of the Linyanti lies the Namibian border. The camp itself is a series of tented rooms nestled under a lush oasis of mangosteen trees. It is built upon raised boardwalks to allow guests to enjoy a close-up viewing experience of the African bush without the danger of crossing the path of a hungry predator. We were particularly pleased by our raised status during the nights as herds of hippo could be seen grazing under the bright full moon just metres from our own dinner table.

Besides the elegant cuisine served four times daily, game drives are the staple diet of guests at DumaTau. In the dry winter months, elephant congregate along the river, a famous attraction for the area. The temperatures are also a bit milder, making May through October the most popular months to visit. Theoretically, from November when the rains come, the elephant herds become dispersed and less frequently spotted as they move between watering holes. Yet, a large downfall has preceded our arrival by a few days and multitudes of the giant mammals are still evident – an indicator of the healthy state of the elephant population of Botswana in general.

The array of wildlife is daunting and each game drive offers a chance to see, amongst others, lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dog, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, kudu and impala. There is also a notable collection of birdlife, particularly the storks, cranes and pelicans that feast amongst the shallow pools of the river. The most exhilarating aspect of the drives is the proximity the guides take us to the animals. Hunting is not allowed in Botswana’s protected private concessions, thus animals have no reason to fear the Land Rovers and are quite accustomed to their presence. Digital cameras work overtime as we sit metres from an unperturbed lioness and her cubs chewing on the carcass of an unfortunate giraffe.

A highlight for any visit to DumaTau must be a drive along the Savuti Channel. Apart from temporary pools in the rainy season the channel has been dry since 1983 when the effects of tectonic plate movements diverted the course of the river, hence the name Savuti, or “Stolen River”. And after a long morning drive through the riverbed the best remedy to the midday heat is to lounge in the pool back at camp.

After another short but picturesque charter flight we arrive in Xigera Camp (pronounced Keejera) in the heart of the Okavango Delta. Based in the Moremi Game Reserve, Xigera is surrounded by lush waterways teeming with delta wildlife. Also built in Wilderness Safaris style on raised platforms with bar, lounge, dining and pool areas and tented en-suite rooms overlooking a waterhole.

By now we are accustomed to the top-class service from the staff and the animated storytelling between guests across the dinning table or around the fire at night. However, we are still taken back by how integrated the camp has become with the wild. On our first evening we watch a herd of 28 young elephant wander past our balcony. They remain in the vicinity for a few days and one playful young bull finds sport in continuously vandalising the camp’s boardwalks. Meanwhile, some guests catch the rare sight of a leopard within the camp at night terrorising the local troop of baboons. One is quickly reminded that the accommodation is meant for extravagance in the bush though, especially when enjoying a lavish meal of ostrich steak and fine wine from Stellenbosch.

The tranquillity of the Okavango is probably best appreciated through a leisurely mokoro ride. We glide through channels of clear water between the reeds, passing islands dotted with palm trees. Most of the guides at Xigera are born and raised in the delta. Their experience shows as they spout endless knowledge about the various medicinal and nutritional properties of the local flora whilst manoeuvring our flotilla near to a pod of hippo.

For a more revved-up adventure one can take a speedboat trip through to the deeper channels between the islands. This serves as a great opportunity to do a spot of tigerfishing or just watch elephant crossing the river and crocodiles basking in the sun. Then of course, there is always time to pull up on the bank for a refreshing sundowner and quiet reflection.

What makes the Okavango such a unique habitat is that it is essentially a 15,000 km² inland delta system in the middle of the desert. The water originates from the Angolan highlands over 1,000 km away and its movement is heavily influenced by the subterranean fault lines below the Kalahari that are the start of the Great Rift Valley. An astonishing 96% of the water that reaches the Delta will evaporate, two percent is used up by humans, while the last two percent disappears into the fault below Maun.

The water level rises seasonally, covering many of the islands in the network. When the waters recede around Xigera, generally between September and May, game drives and bush walks are also part of the itinerary. The walks provide one with a more intricate insight into the African wild. Our experienced guides try to teach us some of the basics of spoor identification and practical bush life. By the end we know how to brush our teeth with the root of the star apple tree, the leaves of which also make for good toilet paper. These trees themselves are lightweight and durable enough to chisel into mokoros.

Our final morning in Botswana arrives. I sit sipping our usual 5 am coffee, listening to the majestic call of the Fish Eagle and try to recall the distant memory of city life. There is just enough time to go on one last game drive, follow a leopard and her cub for a while and spot some buffalo on the open plain. Then, reluctantly we head back to the airstrip for the start of our multi-legged journey home.

Wilderness Safaris
Telephone: (011) 807 1800
Facsimile: (011) 807 2110
E-Mail: enquiry@wilderness.co.za