indwe magazine – April 2006

Sirocco - Location, location, food ... not necessarily in that order
Despite a prevailing southeaster, we sat comfortably outside, sipping exotic pink cocktails as clouds scurried across a twilight sky arching over the darkening waters of the Knysna Lagoon. Well protected by the ‘block out the wind but not the spectacular view’ glass shields surrounding the upper deck of Sirocco, a newly opened restaurant situated on the water’s edge of Knysna’s trendy Thesen Harbour Town, we studied the seductive menu with its unusual fusion of different cuisines and ingredients. Clearly, this was not going to be an easy decision.

Stepping into the interior of Sirocco is like entering a fantastical world of subtle sophistication. Ultra-contemporary, every aspect of the aesthetic has been carefully considered and skillfully coordinated to create an elegant yet relaxed ambience. It is simultaneously spacious and intimate – a contradiction achieved through a complex lighting design which includes coloured floor lights, stairways of green fluorescence, subtly lit walls and huge cylindrical sea shell chandeliers suspended midway between the two decks. In Sirocco, one floats rather than walks, an impression enhanced by the presence of the lagoon always visible through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls.

The arrival of the starters sent a quiver of anticipation around the table. Mine was a tossed sea of salad greens harbouring plump pink prawns and slices of mango flavoured with sesame oil. Like unusual dancing partners swirling around my mouth, the prawn and mango were surprisingly good together – the mango smooth, sweet and tangy, the prawn voluptuous and subtle. Mmm … superb! But of course, I simply had to sample everyone else’s as well ...

A far cry from the predictable platter of Parma ham laid out next to wedges of melon, pale pink, perfectly wrapped, cylindrical parcels were propped up against one another to form a miniature teepee on a bed of finely chopped orange melon sprinkled with mint. Biting into the rolled Parma ham filled with chilled herbed cream cheese oozing out creating an exquisite blending of tastes and textures offset by an unexpected pepperiness of rocket followed by the cool mint flavoured melon, I discovered a taste sensation bound to linger… brilliant beyond words!

Equally inspiring were the grilled Oriental Mussels in a lemon grass, chilli, soy, garlic, coriander and sesame seed oil served with garlic bread – a rich, rounded, delicate but sharp Eastern flavour. The least gastronomically adventurous among us ordered the chef’s soup – a cream of tomato. At first sip I was instantly struck by the honesty of the flavour – uncomplicated, pure and simply perfect. A good soup seems to nourish the soul.

And so, from one epicurean adventure to the next, we made our way through a truly memorable meal in an equally memorable location. Finally, I had to meet the culinary genius behind this heavenly food. Enter executive chef extraordinaire, Michael Hebel – engaging, humorous and passionate about his work. Born in Germany into a family of restaurateurs, Michael has been active in kitchens since the age of thirteen. He’s travelled the world to experience diverse cuisines as well as working in top restaurants in Europe and further afield in Dubai and the Caribbean.

As the conversation turns to his latest creations, the new and unusual dishes devised especially for Sirocco, Michael’s startlingly blue eyes light up. He loves coming up with new gastronomic variations …. such as fruit sushi! Have I tried it?

Michael’s fruit sushi has to be one of the most exquisite things I’ve ever tasted in my life - a small piece of fresh fruit rolled in sweet, cinnamon, vanilla flavoured sushi rice, left plain or covered in poppy or sesame seeds, it is then dipped in a rich chocolate sauce, a smooth nougat sauce or a blackberry sauce – absolutely divine!
Sirocco is open for lunch and dinner seven days of the week. For bookings, (044) 382 4874.

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